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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Yesterday, I plugged up to my Tesla J1772 wall charger and got an EVSE Fault. I pulled out the stock charger that came with the bike and got the same.

This morning I tried both to no avail.

Then I rode to a Charge Point station and was able to fully charge.

2022 Livewire One. About 1,500 hundred miles on it. Had 1K service done Jan 20th.

Mostly charge at home. Today was only the third time DC Fast charging. Never been so much as a glitch charging at home. Now the damn thing won't charge at a Level One rate.

Super bummed about this. Any suggestions?
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
2022 LW1?

Take it in for warranty repair.
Thanks. Yes, that is the plan.

I guess I was really asking you guys if there was a known solution out there, like checking if a connection is loose, and where to look.

Having my Livewire (aka, Harley Davidson) dealership fumble around in there and keeping my bike for months is a last resort.
 

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Have them check it, and then order the parts before you drop it off for good. If you want to keep riding on Level 3, take it back when the parts come in. It's a couple hours for them to fix and test, if the parts are on hand. LW has been good about expressing out the parts for the repair - but that doesnt factor in your dealer's schedule.
 

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Might be too early to tell, but I might have the same issue. I plugged in my L2 charger and I didn't hear the cooling pump turn on like normal. I let it sit for a while and no charging started. I tried the factory L1 and nothing as well. I saw the triangle icon pop up and it said call service on the screen. Don't have L3 nearby and my Setec isn't here yet so I can't try it either.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Might be too early to tell, but I might have the same issue. I plugged in my L2 charger and I didn't hear the cooling pump turn on like normal. I let it sit for a while and no charging started. I tried the factory L1 and nothing as well. I saw the triangle icon pop up and it said call service on the screen. Don't have L3 nearby and my Setec isn't here yet so I can't try it either.
I called Livewire. They think maybe the Tesla J1772 wall charger may have blown the AC converter. But said it will be covered under warranty since they say L2 chargers should charge at a L1 rate.

I just dropped the bike off at the dealership so we shall see.
 

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I called Livewire. They think maybe the Tesla J1772 wall charger may have blown the AC converter. But said it will be covered under warranty since they say L2 chargers should charge at a L1 rate.

I just dropped the bike off at the dealership so we shall see.
Did you ever try plugging it in with the LiveWire EVSE instead of the Tesla home charger?
 

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It wouldn’t hurt to try Disconnecting Power, I don’t know if this would be more effective than simply cycling the OFF/RUN switch, but the Livewire (like most current vehicles) is pretty much a computer on wheels, and sometimes rebooting a computer and do wonders. The procedure for Disconnecting Power can be found in the Owners Manual on Pg. 72. This is the procedure to be preformed before disconnecting the 12V battery (the little battery), this is a standard procedure and nothing to be concerned about preforming.
It also never hurts to make sure the 12V battery is fully charged, the service manual states: 12.7V is 100% SoC.

You can check for Diagnostic Trouble Codes (DTC). These Codes can be displayed by Instrument Module. The procedure for activating the IM Self-Diagnostic mode can be found in the

H-D Livewire Model
2020 H-D Electrical Diagnostic Manual
Pg. 1-21

IM SELF-DIAGNOSTICS
Here is just the first step for retrieving the DTCs.

To enter diagnostic mode, press and hold the trip odometer reset switch located on the left handlebar controls, while turning the run/stop switch in the run position.
You can go to different modules and lists of DTCs, it can display part #s connected to specific DTCs, you can clear codes. The directions are listed in the Electrical Diagnostic Manual Pg. 1-21
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
It wouldn’t hurt to try Disconnecting Power, I don’t know if this would be more effective than simply cycling the OFF/RUN switch, but the Livewire (like most current vehicles) is pretty much a computer on wheels, and sometimes rebooting a computer and do wonders. The procedure for Disconnecting Power can be found in the Owners Manual on Pg. 72. This is the procedure to be preformed before disconnecting the 12V battery (the little battery), this is a standard procedure and nothing to be concerned about preforming.
It also never hurts to make sure the 12V battery is fully charged, the service manual states: 12.7V is 100% SoC.

You can check for Diagnostic Trouble Codes (DTC). These Codes can be displayed by Instrument Module. The procedure for activating the IM Self-Diagnostic mode can be found in the

H-D Livewire Model
2020 H-D Electrical Diagnostic Manual
Pg. 1-21

IM SELF-DIAGNOSTICS
Here is just the first step for retrieving the DTCs.

To enter diagnostic mode, press and hold the trip odometer reset switch located on the left handlebar controls, while turning the run/stop switch in the run position.
You can go to different modules and lists of DTCs, it can display part #s connected to specific DTCs, you can clear codes. The directions are listed in the Electrical Diagnostic Manual Pg. 1-21
Thank you for the helpful information.

The bike is at the dealership and they are working with Livewire to resolve this.

I dropped the bike off Monday. Hopefully I will hear something by Friday.
 

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I see, I’m a little late with the information. It probably would not have fixed the OBC problem anyway. These bikes are quite complex, even if you don’t plan on working on your bike, there is a wealth of information in the “Service Manual” and the “Electronic Diagnostic Manual” that can help you understand how these machines work, even though sometimes the information leads to more questions.
These manuals call out many specialized tools available only to the dealerships (as far as I know. GERRRR!) which limits what an owner or non dealership can do.
The “Electronic Diagnostic Manual” is especially valuable in that it shows you how to use the IM to retrieve the DTCs and what these DTCs are related to.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
I see, I’m a little late with the information. It probably would not have fixed the OBC problem anyway. These bikes are quite complex, even if you don’t plan on working on your bike, there is a wealth of information in the “Service Manual” and the “Electronic Diagnostic Manual” that can help you understand how these machines work, even though sometimes the information leads to more questions.
These manuals call out many specialized tools available only to the dealerships (as far as I know, gerrrr!) which limits what an owner or non dealership can do.
I do tinker some. Have already added some cameras, a fast charger for phone, and LED light strips.

I would have definitely tried your suggestion. I really was hoping I didn't have to turn the bike over to my local dealer. That's why I reached out here first.

But after talking to Livewire on the phone, Jake seemed pretty adamant that it was nothing I could do at home.
 

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...
But after talking to Livewire on the phone, Jake seemed pretty adamant that it was nothing I could do at home.
Once the bike does what you saw, it is generally an OBC replacement - and Jake is usually good at helping dealers get the work done quickly.

Reading your trouble codes will confirm what you suspect - but it is still good not to clear the historic codes so the dealer can see the info when they talk with Jake.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
🥳 Just got this from Jake at Livewire:

The dealership has identified a faulted wire between the on-board charger and filter. It ended up being a difficult one to find, but glad we found what we did because we're very confident in the diagnosis and repair. And this also suggests that the Tesla charge equipment is not at fault, which is great news. We've got parts being overnighted to them for Saturday delivery. I can't guarantee that they'll be able to fit it into the Saturday schedule, but they've been very responsive so you'll have your bike back in short order. I hope you have a great weekend, and I look forward to getting you back on the road!
 

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Thank for sharing the diagnosis. That sounds like good news. And hopefully a simpler and quicker fix. Much better than having to R & R the OBC. If the faulty wire is indeed the malfunction, it would be greatly appreciated if you could tell us what exactly was wrong with the wire and if known what caused the wire to fail, e.g. failure at a connector, wire chafing, wire pinched / broken?
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Thank for sharing the diagnosis. That sounds like good news. And hopefully a simpler and quicker fix. Much better than having to R & R the OBC. If the faulty wire is indeed the malfunction, it would be greatly appreciated if you could tell us what exactly was wrong with the wire and if known what caused the wire to fail, e.g. failure at a connector, wire chafing, wire pinched / broken?
I will ask the dealership for exact cause for wire failure when I pick up my bike. Should be ready today or tomorrow, hopefully.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Update: Just got a call from the dealership. They got the parts from Livewire (over $9,000 worth!!!). Their tech said he needs all next week to work on it, that it's a big job. Basically, he's replacing the entire onboard charger and filter.

Holy sh...

Here I thought it was just a faulty wire. My ignorance of electronics had me thinking you just change that out.

Holy Moses!

That's half of what I paid for the bike 😭

Good thing it's under warranty.
 

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Holy OBC Mob Dee!
Sounds like H-D is trying to scare owners into buying their extended warranty, which is probably not a bad idea.
I checked the prices at " shop.goldstarharley.com " they are a H-D dealer at; 2435 Highway 67 South, Festus, MO 63028, they sell Genuine H-D parts online at 25% off. I used to buy parts from them, but H-D will no longer allow dealers to sell parts outside of each dealers designated territory. You can use their parts finder to look up the part numbers, then paste the numbers in their search for prices.

P/N 66000190 Charger On Board, List price: $5,075.85 / Gold Star: $4822.06
P/N 66000239 AC Filter (electrical part) List: $211.90 / Gold Star: $205.72. (I assume you only need the electrical part of the AC Filter, and not the mount with all the peripherals)

Total parts price for the OBC plus AC Filter, List: $5287.75 / Gold Star: $5027.78

Maybe they are replacing the Power Receptacle also, but it sounds like they made no mention of this.
P/N 9201865 Power Receptacle, Vehicle Inlet, List: $888.74 / Gold Star: $750.23

Thank you for the update, and please let us know what parts they actually replace, and any other work they preform.
 
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