I’m on my 8th Harley now with the livewire ( along with a sprinkling of Japanese and Italian bikes!), and I have to say that I love my new live wire, it won’t replace my cafe racer but it is so much fun and so easy to use I am very happy with it. Only issue is that it rains a lot in the UK!! .... ALOT. In a year or two I’m sure there will be a tail tidy solution like i had on my Ducati Diavel, but the live wire rear end is growing on me because the bike is so futuristic in design technology, but the stupid hole I; the rear hugger just men’s I get filthy, my neck eventu get wet and cold and all the rad crud gets into the rear seat hinge or the electric cable storage area under the seat, which is dumb. Has anyone sourced and off the shelf blank that fits over the ref hugger hole? Thanks all In advance!
Rear hugger cut out - any one found an off the shelf solution?
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No function. It is just a design feature. Same type rear fender on an FXTR. If you do a burnout it does let the smoke out like a chimney.Does the hole even have a function? I cannot figure it. I can get down on the ground and check the tread under the plate. No cooling air can possibly come through that rectangle. What is the excuse for its existence
Thank you Mike. I think it lacks function as well as style and will adopt your solution.
That's a great solution, Mike!
In addition to a modification of the fender hole, I think the "tray" under the seat needs an aftermarket version for storage, like a little trunk. If I carry my charging cable anywhere, it's likely going to be in my Jeep as I haul my Livewire to places like the Keys and the Blue Ridge Parkway. Not sure what it would take to retrofit the electrical system of the Jeep to be a charger when driving (2nd alternator?), but that would be cool too.
Regardless, I like your fender solution.
In addition to a modification of the fender hole, I think the "tray" under the seat needs an aftermarket version for storage, like a little trunk. If I carry my charging cable anywhere, it's likely going to be in my Jeep as I haul my Livewire to places like the Keys and the Blue Ridge Parkway. Not sure what it would take to retrofit the electrical system of the Jeep to be a charger when driving (2nd alternator?), but that would be cool too.
Regardless, I like your fender solution.
I just use a piece of acetate (laminate like what you use for paper covering.) Here are some shots (thinnest solution in case something tries to get stuck in there.)
With clear, you could light it also hide your brake light under there if you do any sort of elimination.
I do believe it was a design element to "see the tire" but it is more of a pain then anything... 'specially when it's wet (which it is frequently in Seattle.)
During the "dry months, I just take the rear fender off anyway, 'cause I do like to see the tire.
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Yes, my target is to have no rivet, it'means a 3D shape = not so easy to do it !
I will come back in few weeks with I hope a nice result
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Let me know how it works out.
I'd love to know as well. Years ago, a friend was mastering the molding of fiberglass and carbon fiber for things like climbing walls and such, but I never followed-up. The idea you have is great. I'm calling my friend to see if he can do the same. Like all I've read thus far, I don't like that cut-out in the rear fender either. Makes a mess of wet roads.
Sorry for the multiple sending sending, I spend time doing positive and negatif plaster molds ( 4 of 5 at the end..).
Now I will add a varnish coat , perhaps before I will switch to a mat carbon finish..
then I will glu it on the mudguard with the professionnal glue.
Now I will add a varnish coat , perhaps before I will switch to a mat carbon finish..
then I will glu it on the mudguard with the professionnal glue.
Eric I really like what you have done and would be interested in a purchase if that is in the cards.
Thanks,
it' has been a long job in fact to obtain this parts, the plaster mold is now out of order for a second epoxy carbon run ( too much cracks..).
So the next steps are to optimise a little bit the shape with the help of cads data guys, including a scan operation then creation of polyester mold to have the possibity to create more easly carbon parts.😅😅 See you in 1 month, 2 ?
Or spending time to create a new plaster mold from my existing negativ plaster mold for a new one shot carbon part...😅. The positiv point is that I still have enought carbon fiber + epoxy resin .
it' has been a long job in fact to obtain this parts, the plaster mold is now out of order for a second epoxy carbon run ( too much cracks..).
So the next steps are to optimise a little bit the shape with the help of cads data guys, including a scan operation then creation of polyester mold to have the possibity to create more easly carbon parts.😅😅 See you in 1 month, 2 ?
Or spending time to create a new plaster mold from my existing negativ plaster mold for a new one shot carbon part...😅. The positiv point is that I still have enought carbon fiber + epoxy resin .
Looks fantastic..... I went with a ‘nici’ piece of rubber for now, it’s often wet and cold in the uk. But what you have made oaks great
I m still working on this subject, I inform the community that will come back next week with a file .stl for a basic 3Dprinter.
So you can print in ABS and used it as you want with a light sanding and painting or like me use it as a base for epoxy and carbon fiber.
Finally fixed with glue inside the mud guard.
![535]()
![536]()
So you can print in ABS and used it as you want with a light sanding and painting or like me use it as a base for epoxy and carbon fiber.
Finally fixed with glue inside the mud guard.
Eric, can I pay you for one that has a mod to shoot the water straight back in a flat rail style, slightly high enough to spray an average car windshield?
Kind of "back off or get wet" style!
If not a straight rail (which would be easiest) spray out in a bar and shield!
It'd need to channel the up spray into a funnel that pipes it back out of course.
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